HS1177 and some other cameras use the Sony 600TVL Super HAD CCD sensor and firmware and they all have the same setting options, accessed using a DPAD button controller on a cable that comes with the camera. For outdoor FPV racing it’s important to change settings to get the best image for both facing into the sun and flying into shadows, these are the settings I recommend. ↓ Read more…
A recurring issue that I see often for many reprap 3D printers that have carriage-mounted fans is seeing the hotend temperature plummet when the fans turn on. The common scenario is printing PLA, which benefits from having strong fans cool the plastic as it prints to prevent curling and improve perimeter print quality. Typically the fan is off for the first layer which prints at a slower speed, then turns on when the second layer starts, and the hotend loses temperature quickly due to the increased extruder feedrate and fan airflow, and can take tens of seconds or longer for the PID function to recover and return hotend temperature properly. What’s happening is the PID function is getting caught off guard since plastic is suddenly feeding faster and removing heat from the hotend more quickly, as well as fan airflow kicking in to increase the rate the hotend is dissipating heat and once the temperature falls it struggles to return temp to normal. In the worst case scenario, the hotend loses enough temperature that the hotend stops extruding and/or the MINTEMP cold extrusion protection kicks in on Marlin firmware. ↓ Read more…
I’ve merged my Marlin modifications with a newer version of Marlin, in a new github repo.
Status info GLCD screen for DOGM LCDs
display Z coordinates to hundreds, not just tenths
display SD print progress percentage numerically, not just with the bar.
display endstop state by toggling capitalization of X,Y,Z labels in the coordinate line
display 0% instead of — when fan is off.
display long filename when printing from SD instead of short 8.3 filename ↓ Read more…
In rare situations there is an issue that can cause your 3D printer running Marlin firmware to suddenly stop during a print, leaving you to troubleshoot without knowing for sure if you have fixed the cause. One of the first things I look for is something being wired to use the Kill Pin, such as a GLCD panel. Many LCD panels include a switch to press to emergency stop the printer. Most people don’t use it at all and without a panel many printers do not have any kill switch other than the reset switch on the electronics they use. There is no direct danger by not having a kill switch, in my opinion. If you do have a LCD panel with Marlin, there is a Stop Printing menu item on the main menu that works just fine for me. ↓ Read more…
This was a short impromptu test flight with my CTH Albatross that I flew shortly after sunset at my usual site on South Maui. I was prepping batteries for tomorrow and realized it was almost sunset and perhaps the wind would die down as it often does, so I went out and resulted in this short test flight. ↓ Read more…
I’ve had a CTH Assassin kit in a box for months, I held off building it while I played with the Albatross and several multirotors, then I wanted to cut my own foam to extend it for more wing area but CTH beat me to it and released an extended version of their own! At first they named it the Assassinator, although if it were up to me I would have named it Sniper. Then they changed the name to Pinata. I know it’s probably because they like bragging about how tough their planes are and pinatas take a lot of whacks. But this plane doesn’t spill candy if it breaks open. đŸ™‚ I didn’t buy the full kit, they sent me just the needed bits for the cost difference, which was nice of Lee to do for me. I’m taking some pics as I build it.
GoDaddy is domain registrar with high name recognition because of their aggressive advertising and large presence. Every internet service has both fans and haters, and there is no shortage of stories on the web about bad experiences. I moved my domains to GoDaddy a few years ago mainly for the lower costs compared to my previous registrar, and I learned to ignore and work around the confusing website and persistent upsell ads. The bottom level customer service staff seemed helpful enough and things worked ok for those years while nothing out of the ordinary occurred.
Many of the horror stories I had run across involved problems with fraud and theft, and I took them with a grain of salt and also the lack of any expectation that such situations would ever happen to me. Well, they did, and here’s my GoDaddy story. ↓ Read more…
I got this cheap pair of glasses from zennioptical.com for my exact prescription for $6.95. Fatshark dipoters cost $19.95 and do not come in my strength and don’t correct for astigmatism.”
I bought a Fatshark Attitude goggle set, but I am nearsighted and need about -3 correction in both eyes, plus I have astigmatism so I decided not to order the Fatshark Diopter set that they sell. The diopter set includes lenses for 3 different correction powers, -2, -4, and -6 so none of those is ideal for me and the image would look fuzzy. The diopters are just low quality simple correction lenses in a small rectangular shape designed to slide into a slot on the goggles in front of the viewing lens. This is the same thing as wearing glasses at the same time as wearing the goggles. Making my own diopters for my exact prescription will give me the best results for using the goggles.
So, I bought some cheap glasses with my optical prescription online at zennioptical.com for $6.95. I chose frames with large lenses and specified a wider pupillary distance so the center of the lens would give me plenty of room for cutting. The goal is to cut the lenses to fit the diopter slots the same as the Fatshark diopters, keeping the pupil in the center. I used a rubber vise and a dremel with cutting wheel to cut the lenses to size, and slot the sides so they properly fit into the mounting slots over the goggle lenses.
The results are as good as I’d hoped. I can now see the full image area in my goggles clearly sharply. The lenses stay in by themselves very well, but I may try some non-permanent way to glue them in, maybe a dot of rubber cement on an edge, just to be sure I don’t lose one.
This is me doing the first flight tests of my OhMini iV Quadcopter and some PID fine tuning to experiment with the flight characteristics. The OhMini iV is a single-piece inverted-V tail frame 3D printed on my MendelMax 2 3D printer. Some pics of the design are at http://smu.gs/1ajpTlp and it uses the same BoM as my OhMini H-Quad which is detailed at http://www.ohmeye.com/2013/ohmini-quadcopter-bill-of-materials-details/ ↓ Read more…
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